What do you understand \nby sportswear? Is it casualwear? How different is it from activewear? Who are \nthe main players in sportswear? Any desi brands here? What are the opportunities \nin this segment? Chhaya Chauhan answers these questions and more. (From "Images \nBusiness of Fashion", September 2007)<\/B><\/I><\/p>
Sportswear – a \nterm that normally brings to mind an image of an athlete or a sportsman dressed \nup to begin a game… a cricketer in full gear, a tennis champ in sport clothing.<\/p>
However, \nit is interesting to note how during the last few decades the dimensions of sportswear \nhave expanded to an extent that has brought forth a whole new face for this clothing \ncategory and what was traditionally sports clothing, is fast acquiring the nomen \nactivewear.<\/p>
To understand the shifting paradigms let’s take a look \nat how these categories are completely different…<\/p>
Active sportswear: Active \nattire, performance sportswear, or active sportswear is clothing, including footwear \nand other accessories, worn for sport or exercise. These are meant to enhance \nthe performance while playing the sport and use special fabrics and cuts specialised \nfor each type of sport. Typical garments include shorts, tracksuits, t-shirts, \npolo shirts and trainers. Specialised garments include wet suits and salopettes. \nIt also includes some underwear, such as the jockstrap. Most active sportswear \nbrands have a lifestyle line of clothes which is inspired by the active sportswear \nrange and these are often worn as casual fashion clothing.<\/p>
Sportswear: A \nterm widely used and well understood globally and more so in the United States, \nsportswear is anything more casual in approach than the rigid or traditional definitions. \nModern classics, glam comfort… classic sporty look with modern feminine \ndetails for the woman who gives equal points to functionality, comfort factor \nand glamour.<\/p>
Traditionally inspired by active sports, it is a collection \nfor fast paced city life, and meets the demand for both fashion and function. \nFrom its sleek design lines to innovative construction, these versatile pieces \nhelp you more than just keep up – they let you set the pace – a perfect \nblend of trendy and sporty, rich fabrics, subtle prints and feminine lines..for \nyou to relax, function and enjoy in.<\/p>
Globally, with the growing market and \ndemands of the customer, today sportswear has further fragmented. However, thanks \nto brand communication and product loyalty that global brands enjoy, even these \nfragments can be unmistakably understood.<\/p>
For example, at most fashion stores \nin the US, there are many more segments under the sportswear category. Nieman \nMarcus offers you to shop even career sportswear along with casual sportswear. \nEllen Tracy’s career sportswear and Nieman Marcus’ career sportswear \ndo not ring a bell even close to ‘sporty’ in the Indian lay man’s \ncontext and so does not the casual sportswear attire by Anne Klein. <\/p>
Further \nmore, at Lord and Taylor, you can shop classic sportswear of the likes of Lauren \nAlpana along with contemporary sportswear by Lucky Jeans and Calvin Klein Jeans. \nThere is a definition driving these. Sportswear career clothes are of a more relaxed \nmindset than the regular career clothes. Likewise, there is a difference between \nthe classic and the contemporary sportswear as the classic version is more refined \nand chic than its contemporary counterpart, which has distinct trendy, younger \nand frolicsome elements, such that, even if a CK skirt has a handkerchief hem \nit will be neatly finished to give an overall refined look whereas a CK Jeans’ \nclassic full sleeve shirt will have elements of frolic like raw edges or braid \ntrims.<\/p>
Clearly, sportswear exists under all major categories, albeit little \nundertoned in definition than the traditional ones, which is why you even have \ncareer sportswear (which is not as formal as regular careerwear) and sportswear \nevening which is not as dressy as regular formal eveningwear.<\/p>
Surprising \nalright to us here, but again, it is fast acquiring recognition in its true essence. \nAsk a professional from the garment export industry, and pat comes the reply: \n“It is what you’d call casualwear”.<\/p>
Even though this sounds \nconfusing to the Indian end-consumer or even our leading brands and retailers, \nfact is the category exists globally and is the widest spread among all apparel, \npartly also owing to the fact that the term and category was born in the 1960s \nand nurtured rather well by the retailers and consumers in American grounds. The \nfact that the American lifestyle and social attitude has not been too rigid or \ndefinition confining unlike most of their global counterparts also lent a helping \nhand. <\/p>
India story<\/strong> <\/p> Addressing the question if it \nis time to introduce the sportswear definition in the Indian context, Ashvinder \nSingh, managing director, USI, a domestic sportswear brand, says, “I think \nthe youth is ready for the definition. The developments that have happened in \nthe past four years in the domestic retail sector are equivalent to what has happened \nin the past 40 years. Thanks to the Internet, the youth in the relatively smaller \ncities is also aware of what brands are doing globally, be it fashion or the automobile \nindustry. Many a times, the customer is aware of the products before it even reaches \nthe stores. I do not feel that the customer will be any bit confused by the introduction \nof this definition, as he well understands the difference between sports and sporty. \nHe is ready to accept provided that the brand imaging is done correctly and crisply \nand the products offered are in complete symphony with the brand imaging. For \nexample, we have been running a t-shirt line called rugby t-shirts for the last \n16 seasons, which is a very smart casual line, inspired by the performance rugby \nt-shirts. Now rugby t-shirts are very rough with their feel, but our line takes \ninspiration from the spirit of the game and with the help of very soft fabrics \nand graphics you have a collection which is appealing to someone who wants to \ndress up smartly and in some way identifies with the sport.<\/p> “The customer \nshould know what the brand stands for and what its offerings are. The product \nand service needs to be consistent – no surprises. I am very inspired by \nBurberry, in how it has managed to retain a consistent image. I’ll say it \nis very easy to build an image, but it takes a lot to stick to it.”<\/p> Shailesh \nChaturvedi, CEO, Tommy Hilfiger Apparel-India, on the question on measures required \nto make retailers and end consumers understand the globally accepted definition \nof sportswear, says: “Sportswear is a very American term because of its \ncasual spirit. It denotes an in-between smarter alternative, a smart casual line \nfor a smarter and sporty spirit fashionable clothing.<\/p> "Point is that \nit is an industry term, as in a very B2B phrase and not necessarily be taken to \nby consumers. Consumers just need to know how to dress, what piece to pair up \nwith what bottom and accessory, and know the looks and styles which are in for \na season. The past four to five years have been progressive as the evolved Indian \nconsumer is actually driving the brand to offer better collections, season after \nseason. Having said this, I do not think we need to follow the US and confuse \nthe clearer definitions that the Indian market follows.”<\/p> “I \nfeel that this is the right time to bring in the definition of sportswear to the \nalready existing sportswear labels. Entry of global sportswear brands like Tommy \nHilfiger and the likes have also helped broadening the minds of consumers to newer \nconcepts”, says Dhruv Bogra, business head, Nautica-India.<\/p> According \nto him, awareness for sportswear category can be created by effective communication \nduring product launch, conveying what sportswear means. One has to make the customers \nsee that the definition fits into their lifestyle. Then, of course, brand value \nis critical. “We market Nautica as classic lifestyle clothing, which one \ncan wear to work, or as smart casual attire, which has a soul of exploration and \nadventure.”<\/p> Manish Kelshikar, design head, Shoppers’ Stop feels \nthat the penetration of the definition is very difficult in the Indian market \nto the end consumers as of now, as even in professional circuits the term is not \nunderstood as of yet. Entire branding comes through commitment to the product. \nHowever, most brands mix products based on the consumer needs.<\/p> “However”, \nhe continues, “following a disciplined way of brand extensions till the \nbrand is well known for a particular category, like sportswear, could help. Currently, \nmost brands are clustered together. An excellent example is Allen Solly, a sportswear \nbrand that has created an individualistic brand image, well dressed with a relaxed \nattitude. It brought in the concept of Friday dressing in the country, which appealed \nto the metrosexuals.<\/p> “Even though young professionals of today are \naware of the sportswear definition as it exists, thanks to the Internet and travelling \nacross the globe, brands still shy away from the definition as the Indian customer \nis still evolving. Thus, no brand forthrightly declares that it is a sportswear \nbrand in the global definition context. The categories well understood by the \nIndian market remain as ethnic\/festive wear, careerwear, Friday dressing, jeanswear, \nloungewear, casual or street wear and club\/party wear”.<\/p> Says Devangshu \nDutta, chief executive, Third Eyesight: “Sports-inspired casualwear in India \nhas been around since the days of brands such as Proline, Active Sportswear, Bata, \nNorth Star and others. Other home grown brands such as USI have also grown organically \nalong those lines and remain active in that market. However, in the last 10-12 \nyears, the entry of global players such as Reebok and Adidas pushed sports-inspired \ncasualwear into the forefront even more, supported also by the growth of sports \ntelecasts and sponsorships. <\/B><\/p> “At the same time, globally, sports-inspiration \nhas been creeping into casualwear, and the share of knits has also grown in the \noverall apparel market – a trend which is reflected now in India also, and \nsupported by the growth of knitwear manufacturing capacity in the country.<\/B><\/p> "The \nterm sports-inspired casualwear demonstrates a common trend where new product \ndevelopments start off as being functional, distinctive and different (such as \nperformance apparel, camouflage, cargo-pants, hiking boots), but then influence \nand blur into the mainstream products as well. <\/B><\/p> "As far as building \nawareness is concerned, the core merchandise, of course, rides on the back of \nsports – whether watching or playing. Television has a huge role to play \nin this, as is apparent from the growth of sales of team apparel for soccer, basketball, \nbaseball and American football. As the phenomenon of sports (playing, telecasting \nand watching) increases, the sports-inspired casualwear segment is sure to grow.<\/B><\/p> "An \ninteresting development recently, film showing the impact of media on consumption \npatterns and habits in this context is the recent Chak De…India, which has actually \ncaused a small resurgence of interest in hockey, and will surely have a positive \nimpact on sports equipment, sportswear and accessories related to hockey."<\/B><\/p> How \nsportswear evolved<\/strong><\/p> The concept was seeded in the Sixties, when \nthe influential Italian designer Emilio Pucci’s sportswear designs and prints \ninspired by Op art, psychedelia, and medieval heraldic banners earned him a reputation \nthat extended far beyond the circles of high society. His sleek shift dresses, \ntunics, created a ‘Puccimania’ that was all part of a movement to liberate the \nfemale form. His designs, while being experimental, were also in tune with what \nmodern adventurous young women wanted to wear. <\/p> The Seventies nurtured it. \nNicknamed the ‘me’ decade, ‘please yourself’ was the catchword of the Seventies. \nIn the United States, the general trend in fashion was towards simplification. \nPants earned unanimous approval over skirts. Jeans profited most from becoming \nan accepted part of the American fashion scene, their new-found respectability \nderiving from their inclusion in collections under the heading of sportswear. \nNike debuted in 1972 and running became a popular pastime, and running shoes were \na functional necessity. The athletic craze was only just beginning.<\/p> Perry \nEllis<\/strong>: Central to the success of a new wave of American sportswear was \nthe Perry Ellis label, established in 1978, which used colour and natural fibres \nto great advantage in its elegant variations on the basics.<\/p> Ellis presented \nhis first women’s sportswear line, Portfolio, in 1976. Although he could not sketch, \nhe knew exactly how the industry worked and proved a master of innovative ideas \ncreating new classics that American women longed for at the time. He was acclaimed \nby critics as the ideal American sportswear designer of the time and loved by \nfemale consumers for his clean-cut yet casual style.<\/p> Norma Kamali<\/strong>: \nWith short skirts made of sweatshirting, leotards, headbands, and leg warmers, \nNorma Kamali made jogging look fashionable. She also created the popular rah-rah \nskirt. <\/p> Giorgio Armani<\/strong>: The most influential Italian fashion \ndesigner of the time was probably Giorgio Armani who produced his first collection \nfor women in 1975. From the outset, the line was dynamic, urban, and understated, \nandrogynous in inspiration. Armani offered a restrained style that greatly appealed \nto the increasing population of women who now had access to the world of work \nand occupied progressively more senior positions within it. This was only the \nbeginning of a tremendous career, which came to fruition in 1981 when Emporio \nArmani was launched.<\/p> It finally arrives<\/strong><\/p> Power suits, \ndress for success, and the conservative preppie look were everywhere. Fashionable \nbrand names like Izod, Nike, and Adidas were the rage in street styles.<\/p> There \nwas no guilt about being greedy in the Eighties. There was money to be made, money \nto be spent, and you had to look really, really good while you were spending it. \nYou even had to look good while indulging in the new aerobics fad – never \nlet ’em see you sweat. Appearance was related to performance, which was of supreme \nimportance to a whole generation of young urban professionals, whose desire to \nlook the part related to a craving for power. The way in which men and women associated \nwith the latest styles was no more a matter of passive submission but one of active \nchoice.<\/p> Women began demanding an alternative to high heels. The image of \na power-suited woman in athletic shoes rushing off to work is quintessential Eighties. \nQuotes such as "It’s harder to climb the ladder of success in high heels" \nwere taken seriously. Some women began dressing in mannish simplicity while attempting \nto shatter the glass ceiling. Flats and low-heeled shoes in muted colours and \nclassic styles were popular. <\/p> Also notable is the extreme popularity of \nthe Adidas sports label, which achieved an incredible level of street cred in \nthe Eighties, even inciting the hip hop group Run DMC to release the single My \nAdidas in 1986. The legendary shoe designer Manolo Blahnik also rose to fame during \nthe 1980s, with his fantastical divine mules, and majestic boots.<\/p> In contrast \nto the conservative business climate, the voice of colour became louder in casualwear. \nThere were no shy colours, be they primary or fluorescent. New wave bands such \nas Culture Club featuring Boy George and mega stars such as Madonna and Michael \nJackson encouraged in-your-face fashion. Moccasins, espadrilles, and other types \nof native shoes were reinvented using new colour palettes. Jellies, made of moulded \nplastic in a variety of colours, were also a huge fad. Even men’s shoes \nweren’t safe as bright-hued Converse All Stars and patterned became popular. <\/p> All \nthe excess, however, was becoming a little too much. <\/p> Liz Claiborne<\/strong>: \nFrustrated at the failure of the companies that she worked for to provide clothes \nfor working women, Liz Claiborne started her own design company, Liz Claiborne \nInc, in 1976. It was an immediate success with sales of $2 million in 1976 and \n$23 million in 1978. By 1988 it had acquired one-third of the American women’s \nupscale sportswear market.<\/p> Ralph Lauren<\/strong>: His aristocratic \nstyle at prices the average American could afford created a sensation. For an \nelite faced with all kinds of avant-garde fashions, it represented a rallying \npoint, endorsing, as it did, a classic look that had been adopted for an active \nlife. The number one of American ready-to-wear, he was equally successful with \nhis sportswear and jeans, which allowed him to reach the widest possible range \nof social classes and age groups.<\/p> Guy Paulin<\/strong>: One of the \nfirst French designers to promote a severe, plain, and uncluttered look, Paulin’s \ngarments were classical in their proportions and made for comfort and simplicity.<\/p> The \nNineties<\/strong><\/p> In the Nineties it was no longer the done thing to follow \nfashion slavishly, a sharp contrast to the highly á la mode Seventies and \nEighties. The phobia of being underdressed was finally completely displaced by \nthe fear of overdressing. Fashion in the Nineties united around a new standard \nas styles of stark simplicity became the vogue. Clothes by ready-to-wear retailers \nsuch as The Gap, Banana Republic, and Eddie Bauer came to the forefront, managing \nto tap into the needs of women who simply wanted comfortable, wearable clothes.<\/p> Lacoste<\/strong>: \nStarting in 2000, with the hiring of a new fashion designer, Christopher Lemaire, \nLacoste began to take control of its brand name and logo, reining in their branding \narrangements. Now, Lacoste has once again returned to the elite status it held \nbefore a brand management crisis in the Seventies and Eighties.<\/p> Michael \nKors<\/strong>: Renowned for his classic, chic, and luxurious but sensible aesthetic \non American sportswear and other clothing styles, it was in 1981 that Kors launched \nthe Michael Kors womenswear line. The menswear line includes sweaters, tailored \npants, and peacoats. In 1997, Kors was named the first ever women’s ready-to-wear \ndesigner and creative director for the French fashion house Celine. In his tenure \nat Celine, Kors turned the fashion house around with blockbuster accessories and \na critically acclaimed ready-to-wear line. Kors left in October 2003 to concentrate \non his own brand. His knowledge and consciousness of trends enabled him to produce \nsimple well cut garments, whose sophistication and elegance appealed to a whole \nnew breed of wealthy American customers drawn to the new vogue for minimalist \nchic.<\/p> Calvin Klein<\/strong>: One of the first fashion designers \nto anticipate the globalisation of world markets, the already well-known designer, \nCalvin Klein, started to market his fashions, perfumes, and accessories not only \nacross the US, but also in Europe and Asia, achieving an unequalled success. A \nbrilliant artistic director, Klein used carefully constructed advertisements containing \nimages tinted with eroticism to promote his sophisticatedly functional mass-produced \ndesigns, which won massive popularity among the urban youth of the Nineties.<\/p> Current \nscenario<\/strong><\/p> Globally, the sportswear market is branching out more \nday by day as new areas emerge and the existing categories evolve further due \nto market demands, coupled with severe competition and customer needs. The bigger \nbrands are forced to make additional sub segments within the broader definition \nto stay put at their current position or grow bigger. <\/p> Globally, with health \nconsciousness and general well being getting embedded in our mind set more than \never, sports-inspired clothing, be it for work or casual, is gaining popularity \nworld over. Sportswear version styles have begun to replace the traditionals, \nreflecting the spirit “ I am what I want to be.” There is a fashion \nstatement even in dressing down, it’s just how fashionably you do it. In \nEurope, sportswear clothing has bloomed majorly because of the affluent aging \npopulation which is youthful in spirit; they lead an active lifestyle and to reflect \ntheir spirit they like to dress up in smart-casual when not at work.<\/p> PVH<\/strong>: \nPhillips-Van Heusen Corporation (PVH) is one of the largest apparel companies \nin the world. The portfolio of brands includes Van Heusen, Calvin Klein, Izod, \nGH Bass & Co, Bass, Arrow and Eagle which are owned, and Geoffrey Beene, Kenneth \nCole New York, Reaction Kenneth Cole, BCBG Max Azria, BCBG Attitude, Michael Michael \nKors, Donald J Trump Signature, Sean John and Chaps, which are licensed. Phillips-Van \nHeusen’s business comprises several major business groups. <\/p> Currently, its \nproducts are distributed through more than 15,000 doors in department, mid-tier, \nmass market and specialty stores in the United States. It also licenses its brands, \nto qualified business partners, domestically and around the world. This enhances \nbrand awareness and strength, while increasing revenues and expanding operating \nmargins.<\/p> Strategy<\/strong><\/p> An insider from the company spoke \non conditions of anonymity: “2006 marked a year of significant change in \nour industry as a result of department store consolidation and store closings. \nThe associated effects were felt across markets, across brands, and by our retail \npartners. Our reaction to these changes was not one of uncertainty, but rather \none of anticipation. We adapted our strategy and methodologies early, in preparation \nfor the inevitable and often tumultuous shifts in the marketplace.<\/p> “We \nbelieve PVH is philosophically and structurally unique. We operate within two \nbusiness models instead of one. We are organised by product-specific operating \ndivisions for purposes of merchandising, design and sales, while organised across \nmultiple divisions for purposes of logistics, sourcing and marketing. This dual \nmodel is, by design, both operationally efficient and brand-centric, providing \na structure and platform to expand our portfolio with complementary new brands \nand product extensions, thus enabling us to seize opportunities.<\/p> “Reacting \nto and finding the opportunities presented by this changing retail environment \nwas just one of the areas in which our company excelled in 2006. We also laid \nthe foundation for future growth and expansion, taking steps to enhance and refine \nour business model:<\/p> a) Agreed to re-acquire from our licensee the operations \nfor Izod women’s sportswear, so that it could build a business that will mirror \nits successful men’s sportswear operations.<\/p> b) Entered into a new license \nfor Timberland men’s and women’s sportswear to expand branded product reach.<\/p> c) \nCommitted to presenting the Calvin Klein brand directly to the US consumer through \nthe opening of full-priced specialty stores that will showcase the Calvin Klein \nwhite label brand. <\/p> We benefit from what we believe is one of the strongest \nmanagement teams in the industry, a portfolio of worldclass brands and an infrastructure \nthat enables us to execute at consistently high levels across all facets of our \nbusiness.” <\/p> Sportswear<\/strong><\/p> “The performance \nof our Sportswear group exceeded expectations in 2006, as here too we were able \nto respond to the changes caused by consolidation in the department store channel. \nThis was achieved through both the strength of our brands and by making additional \ninroads within the broader retail environment of an exclusive store presentation \nunder the Izod LX label. Van Heusen sportswear broadened its presence in JC Penny \nas a lifestyle presentation. We worked with our retail customers to adjust their \nproduct mix in recognition of the new landscape. <\/p> “The Izod brand, \nwhose consistent success speaks to the strength of the brand, will benefit this \ncoming year by bringing the Izod women’s sportswear business in-house, allowing \nus to be the brand stewards for the totality of both the men’s and women’s businesses. \nThis represents an opportunity to establish what we project could be a $200 million \nbusiness within five years, while also developing in-house expertise in the women’s \nwholesale sportswear arena, which could provide us with a capability and platform \nthat can be levered to grow additional women’s businesses.<\/p> The strength \nof the Calvin Klein brand exhibited itself in the performance of our men’s better \nsportswear business. Sales of the Calvin Klein sportswear business were up approximately \n60 per cent in its second full year of operation and door count increased from \n500 to 550.”<\/p> BCBG Maxazria<\/strong><\/p> Founded in 1989 \nby founder, designer-chairman-CEO, Max Azria, the brand was named for the French \nphrase bon chic, bon genre, a Parisian slang meaning good style, good attitude. \nThe company is a combination of European sophistication and American spirit. A \nretail giant, it owns and operates over 290 BCBG Maxazria boutiques throughout \nthe world with over 210 in the US alone. The collection is also sold through specialty \nstores and in-store shops in major department stores across the globe including \nSaks Fifth Avenue, Nieman Marcus, Bloomingdales, Nordstrom. The company has a \nportfolio of 15 brands, making it one of the most diversified fashion houses. \nThis fall season, the company will add a contemporary outerwear collection under \nits existing umbrella of clothes, accessories and fragrances.<\/p> The BCBG customer \nis modern, chic and fashion forward. She appreciates clothes that are elegant \nas well as wearable. The company caters not to an age group but to an attitude.<\/p> The \nBCBG Sportswear line truly pushes fashion to its limits and much more, even as \nit does not consciously follow predicted fashion forecasts, rather creates fashion \nlooks of its own, so much so that most brands follow what the BCBG Maxazria Sportswear \nlabel sets.<\/p> In a telephonic interview with Ajitesh Bhatia, director-sportswear, \nBCBG Maxazria group said: “We are able to provide our clients what they \njust will not get elsewhere and we make continuous efforts to improve our understanding \nof the customers’ expectations from us. There is huge competition in this \nsegment and we are considered market leaders of contemporary sportswear styling. \nThe need to keep re-inventing to rise above expectations is the key. We launch \nabout 200 styles per month to cater to the niche segment that the label is in \nand I am only talking about one of the labels under the company’s umbrella \nthat is BCBG Maxazria Sportswear. We feel that designing is more than 50 per cent \nof technical knowledge and thus, have a stock of in-house technicians, patternmakers \nand designers right here in our Los Angeles office. <\/p> “We are successful \nas we capture the latest trend at all price points for all classes of clients. \nOur brand has an edge because we are ever changing, ever reinventing, trying something \nnew blended with the classic fits. Customers get a complete deal when they are \nshopping with us. Plus, most of our sportswear pieces can multitask; sportswear \nhas it advantages – the tops can be worn to office as well as a party with \nlittle change.”<\/p> Nike<\/strong><\/p> In 2006, Nike wrested \nthe rights to become the official kit sponsor for the Indian cricket team for \nfive years. Beating arch rivals Reebok and Adidas, it paid Rs 196 crore to the \nBoard of Control for Cricket in India.<\/p> The first ‘Just Do It’ \ncricket ad also made its appearance during the Champions Trophy last year since \nNike aimed to connect emotionally with Indian customers, and connecting through \ncricket passion is truly the best way.<\/p> Sanjay Mehra, general manager, Nike-India:<\/p> Q. \nHow is this segment evolving in India?<\/p> A. Established in June 2004, Nike \nIndia aims to lead innovation in footwear, apparel and equipment and introduce \nto consumers its vast range of specialised products. It aims to raise the bar \nin terms of choice to the consumer, customer service standards, and stimulate \ncompetition in the industry.<\/p> In addition to performance products, Nike aims \nto bring inspiring and innovative sportswear solutions to style-conscious youth \nthroughout the world. Nike aims to energise the street through collections grounded \nin Nike’s DNA with its sports-inspired line of products called Nike Sportswear. \nWe introduced the premium line of Nike Sportswear in India this summer and the \nresponse we’ve received is encouraging. A. Nike has a range of \nfootwear that is inspired by sport. Nike has always enjoyed a healthy degree of \npopularity beyond hardcore athletes. For example, the Air Force 1 franchise, is \na shoe inspired by basket ball. A basketball fan would wear Air Force 1 on the \nstreets, whether he plays basketball or not. <\/p> At Nike, innovation is foremost \nand will remain the core of our brand. With our sportswear line, what’s \nhip and what’s in fashion still blends in with performance. For example, \nunlike sports shoes, which might get used for a 45-minute game before being tossed \nback into a locker, the Sportswear line may be used all day. That’s a different \nmindset, but a chance to explore a different side of product innovation. This \nrange also gives us a chance to integrate innovation across categories, from sports \nto fashion. <\/p> Adidas<\/strong><\/p> Adidas is a major German sports \napparel manufacturer, part of the Adidas Group, consisting of Reebok sportswear \ncompany, Taylormade golf company, Maxfli golf balls, and Adidas Golf and is the \nsecond largest sportswear manufacturer in the world. The company was named after \nits founder, Adolf (Adi) Dassler in 1948. In 2006, Adidas acquired Reebok for \n$8 billion. The deal overshadowed Nike’s purchase of Converse in 2003. The acquisition \nincreased Adidas’ market share in North America and allowed it to further compete \nwith the world’s biggest maker of sports apparel, Nike. Adidas revenue for 2006 \nwas listed at or about 13.625 billion US dollars. “Impossible is nothing" \nis the current mainstream marketing slogan for Adidas. Today, the brand is also \npopular in hip-hop fashion. In the video to his new single Rudebox, singer Robbie \nWilliams wears an Adidas jacket with the classical logo and concert and Juggy \nD, a British Asian singer, wears Adidas branded clothing in his music videos.<\/p> Since \n2000, instead of the traditional divisional structure of footwear and apparel\/accessories, \nAdidas now has three divisions: Forever Sport, Original and Equipment. (As of \n2002, the divisions are called Adidas Sport Performance, Adidas Sport Heritage, \nASport Style.)<\/p> Adidas’ presence in India is 11-years-old and it has \napproximately 235 exclusive retail showrooms across the country, informed John \nThangaraj, manager-trend & lifestyle marketing, Adidas India. Globally, the \ncompany has three brands dedicated to distinct product categories: <\/p> a) Adidas \nSport Performance, the only collection available in India, comprises technically \nsound clothes for playing a sport like tennis or golf and competes with brands \nof the likes of Nike and Reebok.<\/p> b) Adidas Original is a sports-inspired \nlifestyle brand and competes with the likes of Tommy Hilfiger and Guess internationally.<\/p> c) \nGlobal premium style brand called Y-3, is in collaboration with the Japanese designer \nYohji Yamamoto. This is a super premium brand and is in the league of the likes \nof Prada and Gucci. The latter two brands are not available here as of now.<\/p> “We \nfeel that the Indian consumer is ready for a lifestyle brand like Adidas Original \nand we are coming up with our first store of this label in Delhi. Premium lifestyle \nbrands like Fcuk are helping the Indian youth keep in touch with global trends. \nThe evolving sports culture is influencing lifestyle like never before. Sports \nfitness lifestyle is catching up.” <\/p> <\/p> Reebok<\/strong><\/p> \n<\/p> Reebok was founded in 1895 in Britain by Joseph William Foster. In 1958 \ntwo of the founder’s grandsons Jeffrey and Joseph left the family business and \nstarted a rival company that came to be known as Reebok. The firm was sold to \na group of investors in 1984, led by R Stephen Rubin of Pentland Industries and \nPaul Fireman, who established a holding company based in theUK, Limelight Limited, \nrenamed Reebok International Limited<\/p> Reebok is now owned by the German footwear \ngiant Adidas, which completed its acquisition in early 2006.<\/p> Reebok surged \nin popularity in 1982 after the introduction of the Freestyle athletic shoe, which \nwas specifically designed for women and came out when the aerobics fitness craze \nstarted. Not only was the Reebok Freestyle popular as athleticwear, but also on \nthe streets as casualwear because of its comfort and styling. <\/p> Reebok started \nits operations in India in 1995. Headed by managing director Subhinder Singh Prem, \nReebok India has a pan-India presence. It claims to enjoy 51 per cent market share \nof the total sportswear market the country. It has over 500 standalone stores \nand is the largest sportswear brand with sale turnover of Rs 900 crore on MRP \nand with 40 per cent of the turnover attributed to apparel clothing range, which \nworks out to Rs 360 crore. <\/p> The apparel line, says Singh, is an athletic \nleisure line, that is a casualwear line with inspiration coming from various sports. \n“We have stuck to the sports pedigree, and sponsor and design collections \nfor various sport events. I’ll attribute the brand building to women’s \nfitness as they make most of the calls when buying. We had started a programme \ncalled Reebok University Programme, aimed at training women for fitness. Now, \n97 per cent of these women have ventured out as either gym trainers or personal \ntrainers and sport our clothes. These are our brand ambassadors.”<\/p> Lifestyle \nfit is getting global like never before. Until four years back, Reebok would launch \na product probably six months later in India. Today, India is aligned globally \nfor every launch, be it a product or a marketing campaign.<\/p> Among several \nother associations like the one with Manish Arora or the Hutch Marathon, Reebok \nhas done a full collection around Mahinder Singh Dhoni’s favourite number \n7, which is a stylised line. “In fact, Dhoni spent two days with us designing \nthe range. He is very passionate about clothes too and this aspect of his personality \nis reflected in the lifestyle range. “<\/p> The Scarlett ‘Hearts’ \nRbk collection is a fashion-forward, athletic-inspired footwear and apparel. meant \nfor the elite, brand-conscious fashion lover. It consists of bright, summer-friendly \ncolours in shoes, track pants, tees and tops in which one can exercise and wear \nto casual occasions like going out for coffee, movies.” <\/p> Reebok has \nalso launched its campaign ‘I Am More’ featuring Scarlett Johansson \nwith a focus on celebration of individuality. Reebok is the only brand to acknowledge \nthat a sports star also has a life beyond sports and has taken this stance in \nthis lifestyle campaign wherein Reebok will talk not just about on field performance, \nbut off field interests as well.<\/p> Reebok has also launched a campaign called \n“2 people in 1” which has a collection of sports as well as lifestyle \nshoes. Sport need not be boring in terms of style. Reebok is looking at 40 lifestyles \nstores by the end of this year.<\/p> Lotto<\/strong><\/p> A 34-year-old \nItalian brand, Lotto was launched in India in 2005. Operated by the New Delhi-based \nlicensee, Sports Lifestyle Pvt Ltd, it has been growing at an average rate of \n20 per cent. For the next five years its goal is to accelerate this growth and \nestablish Lotto’s positioning as an Italian sports fashion brand offering \ngreat product at great prices; as also, achieve top-of-mind recall among the target \ngroup as a true sports fashion brand.<\/p> Lotto operates through exclusive stores \nand around 500 MBOs. The plan is to double this number in the coming years.<\/p> On \none among the many learnings that Lotto derived from the Indian market is that \nthe way to growth “was not to focus on what percentage of an existing market \nthe brand can achieve, but to work towards building a category which will create \na significant market on its own. Hence, there is a sustained endeavour to develop \nsuch winners,” a Sports Lifestyle spokesperson said.<\/p> The initial Lotto \noffering was focused primarily on sports. However, a significant increase in the \ncontribution of active lifestyle was noticed and the Lotto range was supplemented \nwith sports lifestyle category to cater to this need.<\/p> Tommy Hilfiger<\/strong><\/p> The \nbrand combines American style with design elements to deliver a sportswear look \nwith a designer’s edge under the following labels: Tommy Hilfiger, Hilfiger \nDenim, Tommy Jeans, and Hilfiger Sport.<\/p> Tommy Hilfiger provides casual sportswear \nand accessories for men and women, prominently under the classic sportswear sub \nsegment; Hilfiger Denim is a comtemporary sportswear line, which is a more fashion \nforward sportswear collection, with focus on premium denim related separates for \nmen and women and finished with a modern edge and fresh spirit. Hilfiger Sport, \nis of course, an activewear label for men and women. The designs are performance \nbased and inspired by American heritage.<\/p> USI<\/strong><\/p> USI, \na home grown label, popular as a casualwear brand inspired by sports, has a presence \nthrough 19 standalone stores and 130 shop-in-shops in large retail format chains, \nboutiquess and family stores. Its managing director, Ashvinder Singh, describes \nhis brand philosophy as “clothing and accessories meant for when you want \nto be yourself, relaxed and yet smart. We use fits and styling to make a trendy, \nsmart collection for relaxed and youth-spirited collections. Youthwear has a strong \nconnection with sports and our collections draw inspiration from various sports.” \n<\/p> Wills Lifestyle<\/strong><\/p> ITC’s Wills Lifestyle’s \nlabel, Wills Sport, is another domestic brand which is as close as it gets to \nthe global definition of sportswear, a relaxedwear line with vibrant designs in \nbreezy cottons and linens. The label is one of the four apparel labels under the \nWills Lifestyle umbrella.<\/p> One can see brands like these making a statement \nand bringing about the definition of sportswear, which its label Wills Sports \nalready stands for, because of the image the brand enjoys. Considering that the \nbrand is less than a decade old, it can emerge as the mascot of sportswear in \nthe country in the manner it exists globally.<\/p> Guess?<\/strong><\/p> Guess \nhas been known as a contemporary sportswear brand internationally. However, it \nis moving into a fashionable eveningwear line with a young spirit, informs Sukanya \nDutta Roy, general manager, Guess-India. “Our latest denimwear line not \nonly consists of denims but the look that we relate to as denimwear starts at \nRs 5,000. Thus, we are working on an image change to a clubwear line.” <\/p> Guess \ncame to India in May 2005 and currently has 17 standalone stores. “We will \nbe opening three more by the end of this year”, said Roy. “ We are \nknown in India as a high-end fashion brand and we have a great appeal with youths \nwho clamour for sexy and adventurous fashion.”<\/p> Nautica<\/strong><\/p> An \nAmerican brand, inspired by active lifestyle, Nautica is globally known as a lifestyle \nbrand inspired by sports, offering smart casual and semiformal clothing and accessories. \n<\/p> It entered India in May 2006 and currently has 6 standalone stores, with \nplans to touch the 15 mark by this December along with five shop-in-shops through \nCentral, which is a lifestyle store of Pantaloon, and Shoppers’ Stop. Says \nDhruv Bogra, business head for Nautica-India: “Nautica is popular as an \nactive lifestyle brand. We use elements from every sport like sailing, tennis, \ngolf or any other as graphics or embellishments. Our target consumer indulges \nin the sports spirit through our clothing. The sports-inspired smart casual line \nhas been evolving rapidly in the last 2-3 years. For example, Nike and Reebok \nare also moving beyond performance lines on multi dimensions. <\/p> “Today’s \nIndian consumer is aware of these brands. Typically, our consumers are well travelled \nand above 30 years of age and relate to our brand since they are either indulging \ninto these sports actively or aspire to play these sports. The concept of ‘feeling’ \nold is fast fading out, young needs to be the mindset and not the age; health \nconsciousness has increased manifold and fitness is a big thing. This breed of \nconsumer is the fastest growing and we are providing them with what they need \n– design or style coupled with comfort.”<\/p> “The Indian consumer \nis closer to his European counterpart rather than the American. Most Europeans \nlead an active lifestyle and though like to dress formal at work, they go the \nsporty way for casualwear. The affluent aging population which is youthful in \nspirit, appreciates sportswear. We import a lot of styles from Europe since they \nsuit the needs of Indian consumers rather perfectly. We use a lot of performace \nfabrics in our collections. For example, there is one called Coolmax which is \npopular in Europe. In India, our X 1000, X 2000 series of hi-performance jackets \nare quite sought after by consumers.”<\/p> Lifestyle<\/strong><\/p> Lifestyle \nis a part of the 1.5 billion USD Landmark Group (Dubai). A leading chain of large \nformat department stores, Lifestyle has been in the retail business since 1998 \nand today it is present through 18 stores across eight cities, housing more than \n250 national and international brands and five product categories<\/p> Shankar \nSuryanarayan, vice president- marketing, Lifestyle International (P) Ltd, says: \n“Sportswear is an important category at Lifestyle where we house brands \nsuch as Kappa, Nike and Adidas. Today, India is a fast growing market for sportswear. \nIn fact, the market for sports footwear is growing more than the normal footwear \nsegment. The emergence of fashion sportswear is a new trend among today’s \nyouth who dress sportily not only for the gym but also for college or a casual \nmeeting with friends. Such opportunities will contribute to the growth of this \ncategory in India.” <\/p> Commenting on the growing pace of sportswear \nclothing, he says,“The category is growing in a promising manner thanks \nto established international brands who have adopted a more lifestyle-led positioning \nto appeal to a wider audience. This is just the beginning of a category that is \nhere to stay”.<\/p> “In a multibranded outlet, competing brands are \nconstantly vying for the consumer’s mind space. The retail environment provides \ndedicated space within the store backed by worldclass promotions and consumer \nfranchise activities.”<\/p> Accessories<\/strong><\/p> Like any \nother clothing category , sportswear is also flanked by well meaning footwear \nand accessories that complete the look for sportswear apparel .<\/p> Talk of \nCK Jeans shirtdresses, and you would find in the same stores matching watches, \nsunglasses and footwear. Similarly, Armani, Lucky, DKNY, BCBG offer a complete \nlook with accessories to choose from and this includes footwear as well.<\/p> Closer \nhome, the new age malls have a lot of the “total solutions stores” \noffering coordinated shoes and accessories. Further, stores like Madame or Bizzare \nmix and match the accessories and footwear with the apparel, offering a complete \nlook. <\/p> BGs, Mia, Aswera The Bangle Store, and Impulse are some of the stores \nthat offer accessories in every category of sportswear apparel. There are also \nstores like Clarie’s in the US that again offer sporstwear accessories for \nyoung consumers.<\/p> As far as statistics go, on an average, a Nupscale household \nin India spends Rs 20,500 on apparel and fashion accessories , which constitutes \nabout 6 per cent of their total income.<\/p> Accessories, which include footwear, \nconsume 30 per cent or Rs 6,150 of this. (Based on a study conducted by IMAGES \nBusiness of Fashion in September last). The study notes that various products \nof general use yet low involvement like footwear or innerwear, fail to elicit \nfrom consumers the required response and so the number or percentage of people \nspending on these specific categories may appear much lower than what it actually \nis.<\/p> Most brands offer products for every occasion. Even though none of the \nbrands have marketing lines mentioning sportswear like the apparel brands, many \nbrands are promoting their products as smart chic casualwear, very close to the \nglobal definitions.<\/p> The sportswear market is the only sector in India that \nhas the presence of all top international brands. The year 1996 witnessed the \nentry of Nike, Reebok and Adidas that gave a new dimension to footwear and fashion \nretailing in the country. Then there are brands like Puma and Tommy Hilfiger that \nare determined to present a whole new experience in fashionable activewear and \nsportswear. All these brands are today targeting a nationwide expansion and this \nmarket segment is suddenly beginning to look a lot bigger than what it was initially \nperceived to be. <\/p> India majors like Bata and Liberty have also responded \npositively to the challenges in a bid to retain the market leadership. They have \nsignificantly transformed their retail formats to become more lifestyle-oriented \nand are positioning themselves as vibrant and contemporary Indian brands. A look \nat how some of these brands fare:<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" What do you understand by sportswear? Is it casualwear? How different is it from activewear? Who are the main players in sportswear? Any desi brands here? What are the opportunities in this segment? Chhaya Chauhan answers these questions and more. (From "Images Business of Fashion", September 2007) Sportswear – a term that normally brings to […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"content-type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3321","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"yoast_head":"\n
Q. Please elaborate on \nyour lifestyle line, inspired by the sports line?<\/p>