{"id":4483,"date":"2021-01-01T06:06:00","date_gmt":"2021-01-01T06:06:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.thirdeyesight.in\/?p=4483"},"modified":"2022-11-02T11:02:59","modified_gmt":"2022-11-02T11:02:59","slug":"jockey-what-lies-beneath","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/myechoproject.com\/TES\/jockey-what-lies-beneath\/","title":{"rendered":"Jockey: What lies beneath"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Written By ANSHUL DHAMIJA<\/a><\/p>\n\n

<\/div>\n

Sunder Genomal, MD, Page Industries<\/p>\n

Page Industries got the underwear out of the closet and achieved a decadal success story like no other. A slowing economy has dented its sheen, but the company believes it is still in a sweet spot.<\/p>\n

A visit to a Jockey store for day-to-day apparel like underwear or just plain pyjamas is sure to make one\u2019s wallet lighter. For example, for men who like to laze at home in their boxers, the cost of the garment is upwards of \u20b9419 apiece. Pyjamas, another comfort garment, costs a shade under \u20b91,000 apiece. Jockey, an American brand that re-entered India in 1995 (it was around for about three-four years in the early 1970s), generally carries a premium of at least 20% over other Indian mainline innerwear brands like Lux, Rupa, and Dollar.<\/p><\/div><\/div>\n\n

Billionaire Sunder Genomal, though, likes to think of Jockey as a \u201cvalue for money proposition\u201d for the Indian consumer. \u201cAn aspirational, yet affordable brand,\u201d says the 67-year-old managing director of Page Industries, the exclusive licensee of Jockey International Inc. in India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Nepal, the U.A.E., Oman, and Qatar. The company is also the licensee of the U.K.\u2019s swimwear brand, Speedo International, in India and Sri Lanka. Jockey, though, is the mainstay brand of Page Industries. Genomal, along with his elder brothers Nari and Ramesh, holds about 54% stake in Page Industries, which commands a market capitalisa – tion of about $3.2 billion, as of mid-November. \u201cWe like to offer the consumer more than what we have promised\u2014quality, style, and comfort at a sensible price,\u201d Genomal tells Fortune India. His words are solidly backed by the performance of the company<\/p>\n

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Image : Graphics by Rahul Sharma<\/p><\/div>\n

Having reported a nine-year revenue and profit CAGR (compound annual growth rate) of 27% and 29%, respectively, in this decade, Page Industries has been the fastest-growing apparel company in India, according to a report by brokerage firm Anand Rathi.<\/p>\n\n

Jockey, too, is the single largest-selling apparel brand in India. On the bourses, the Page Industries share price has moved from \u20b9395, after its stock market debut in 2007, to \u20b922,185 as of mid-November this year\u2014a whopping 5,550% growth and an indication of investor confidence in the company. Its share price had even touched a high of \u20b934,688 in August 2018 but slipped after two consecutive fiscals of moderate-to-flat sales growth. This made retail analysts question whether the innerwear maker had peaked out. \u201cAt some point you start to hit the glass ceiling of overall market growth, which also depends on how the economy is doing,\u201d points out Devangshu Dutta, CEO of Third Eyesight, a consultancy firm.<\/p><\/div><\/div>\n\n

Ranked No. 368 on the Fortune India 500 list, Page Industries has no doubt been a decadal success story like no other. \u201cPost 1995, a new generation of professional executives in IT, banking, and other sectors had emerged, and Jockey, being an international brand, appealed to them,\u201d says Govind Shrikhande, the former managing director of departmental store chain Shoppers Stop. Ironically, the brand is \u201cnot as strong in the U.S. as it is in India,\u201d he adds.<\/p>\n\n

Regarded by stock analysts as a quiet and efficient performer, Page Industries has been devoid of any major controversy. That\u2019s up until September this year when reports of human rights violations at a company factory in Bengaluru surfaced. The Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP), a non-profit entity dedicated to promoting safe, lawful, humane, and ethical manufacturing around the world, began an investigation into the alleged violations; Jockey is a founding member of the industry watchdog.<\/p>\n\n

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Image : Graphics by Rahul Sharma<\/p><\/div>\n\n

While Genomal steered clear of the issue, a Reuters report in October said: \u201cPage [Industries] denied wrongdoing and called allegations of verbal abuse and workplace intimidation against employees \u2018outrageous\u2019.\u201d<\/p>\n\n

Brokerage firm Edelweiss, in its results report on Page Industries in November, highlighted that clearance from WRAP could come in the coming weeks. The report, which detailed the conference call highlights with the company\u2019s management, said: \u201cWRAP has conducted a rigorous inspection in October and they are satisfied with the status of affairs\u2026 WRAP has indicated that none of the allegations highlighted were mentioned by the employees.\u201d<\/p>\n\n

Brand consultant Raghu B. Viswanath says the investigation by WRAP would hardly dent the overall image of the company. \u201cI don\u2019t believe that brand Jockey will be seen in a lesser light by the consumer given its extremely strong equity,\u201d says Viswanath, also the chairman and chief vision holder of consultancy firm Vertebrand. From a low of `18,000 in September, Page Industries\u2019 share price was up 23% by mid-November, showing no signs of investors losing confidence in the company.<\/p><\/div><\/div>\n\n

Jockey re-entered the Indian market at a time when innerwear was a segment of little worth to the consumer, and investing in a premium brand was hardly a trend. But Page Industries focussed on product quality and quickly built a go-to brand around Jockey. It developed an extensive network of distributors, much like an FMCG company, across the country; changed the rules of retailing with product displays and attractive packaging, and\u2014to a great extent\u2014brought the innerwear category out of the closet. \u201cIt helped redefine the entire category,\u201d says Viswanath. \u201cThis created a headstart advantage for the brand, even as many other players with deep marketing budgets are still trying to play catch-up.\u201d<\/p>\n\n

\"Page<\/div>\n\n

Page Industries plant<\/p>\n\n

Data sourced from Page Industries\u2019 FY20 annual report shows that India\u2019s innerwear market has an estimated worth of \u20b932,000 crore, accounting for 9% of the total fashion retail market. Of that, 64% comprises the women\u2019s innerwear segment, with the balance being the men\u2019s and kid\u2019s segments. The innerwear market is projected to grow at a CAGR of 11% to reach \u20b989,700 crore by 2028. The women\u2019s segment is projected to grow at 12.5%, almost double the pace of the men\u2019s segment. According to brokerage firm Geojit, Jockey has a 19%-20% market share in the men\u2019s premium innerwear segment, and 5%-6% in the women\u2019s segment.<\/p><\/div><\/div>\n\n

Given the projected growth in the women\u2019s category, Page Industries is already on the ball. It has been adding exclusive brand outlets for women to its retail network (44 such outlets have been rolled out so far), and is adding another 90,000 sq. ft. of manufacturing space in Hassan, Karnataka, to cater to the growth of the women and kidswear segments. The latter is another key growth driver for the company, given its projected market size of \u20b91.34 lakh crore by 2025. At present, almost 45% of Jockey sales in India is driven by the men\u2019s innerwear category, where competition has picked up pace.<\/p>\n\n

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Image : Graphics by Rahul Sharma<\/p><\/div>\n\n

Over the last 24 months, the retail industry has suffered heavily\u2014beginning with a slowdown in the economy and followed by the Covid-19 pandemic, which led to brick-and-mortar retail being shut for about two months. \u201cRight from the last quarter of 2019, the Indian economy has been under stress. There have been huge pileups of unsold inventory across many brands since then,\u201d says Viswanath. Page Industries\u2019 FY20 performance (see graph) was a testament to the headwinds in the retail sector.<\/p>\n\n

Now, in the shadow of Covid-19, there are more headwinds for innerwear brands, and they need to re-examine their strategies given that people aren\u2019t going out as often as they did. Consequently, the need to buy more undergarment pieces comes down. Intrinsically, the category has challenges such as a higher replacement cycle, especially among men. \u201cIn the U.S. and Europe, men typically buy underwear multiple times, and every year, as it is part of their fashion and lifestyle wardrobe. In India, the replacement cycle varies between two to three years as this category is still only a necessity,\u201d says Shrikhande.<\/p><\/div><\/div>\n\n

\u201cThis can only be addressed through product innovation, fashion, personality, and brand-led differentiations,\u201d he adds. And that\u2019s already visible with niche men\u2019s innerwear brands such as XYXX and One8, which is owned by India\u2019s cricket captain Virat Kohli. Page Industries\u2019 profitable growth and low barriers to entry have also led to a rise in competition.<\/p>\n\n

Three years ago, Pepe Jeans Europe entered into an equal joint venture partnership with hosiery major Dollar Industries to manufacture and market premium fashion innerwear, loungewear, gymwear, and sleepwear clothing for adults and kids. Likewise, for a play in the premium segment, Kolkata-based Rupa & Co.\u2019s subsidiary, Oban Fashions Private Limited, acquired the brand licences of FCUK and Fruit of the Loom. Apart from this, a few domestic and international fashion brands like Van Heusen, U.S. Polo Assn., and Tommy Hilfiger have also started jostling for space in this category.<\/p>\n\n

Jockey re-entered the Indian market at a time when innerwear was a segment of little worth to the consumer, and investing in a premium brand was hardly a trend. But Page Industries focussed on product quality and quickly built a go-to brand around Jockey. It developed an extensive network of distributors, much like an FMCG company, across the country; changed the rules of retailing with product displays and attractive packaging, and\u2014to a great extent\u2014brought the innerwear category out of the closet.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhile in the past the competition wasn\u2019t credible, the newer competition is more credible, has sound brand equity, and better distribution,\u201d says the Anand Rathi report. \u201cWe believe the increase in competition will have a slight impact on Page\u2019s [Industries] growth ahead.\u201d Moreover, the new entrants have the second-mover advantage: entry into a market that\u2019s primed and ready for a brand. \u201cIt took Van Heusen innerwear about two years to reach revenue of \u20b9200 crore while Jockey had taken about nine years to hit half of that, and another 14 years to reach \u20b9200 crore,\u201d the report added.<\/p>\n\n

Many within the industry believe that the innerwear category will evolve much like the fashion space, where different kinds of products would be positioned for different occasions. For example, different underwear for work, home, and for partying. \u201cThat said, the brand Jockey, I feel, is still synonymous in India with what is \u2018inside\u2019. It\u2019s the \u2018Intel Inside\u2019 of the Indian innerwear market,\u201d quips Viswanath.<\/p>\n\n

If Covid-19 is ensuring that people aren\u2019t going out enough and, hence, not changing their underwear often enough, then leisurewear, which includes the athleisure clothing segment, is \u201cgoing through the roof\u201d, says Genomal. \u201cPeople have realised that these are multi-functional products and the athleisure segment\u2019s share of the pie will certainly increase significantly, in terms of the overall sales, going forward.\u201d For the first six months of the ongoing fiscal, Page Industries reported revenue of \u20b91,025 crore, a 36% drop compared to the corresponding period a year ago, on account of the impact of the pandemic. Its profit fell by 68% to \u20b971.3 crore. Genomal maintains that sales are back to near pre-Covid-19 levels across product categories.<\/p>\n\n

But it still begs the question whether Page Industries would be able to repeat its phenomenal decadal growth in the next decade. Despite the headroom for growth, analysts are doubtful, given the rise in competition. \u201cIt will be vital for them to retain the appeal among younger consumers, without which the momentum is bound to slow down,\u201d says Dutta of Third Eyesight.<\/p>\n\n

Genomal, a citizen of the Philippines who has set up base in Bengaluru, though, believes that brand Jockey is in a sweet spot. \u201cWe just need to focus on our core competency and keep our heads down,\u201d he says. \u201cThe kind of portfolio that we have is still highly under-penetrated. We are actually more excited today than we ever were about the future,\u201d says Genomal, whose exposure to the Jockey brand began when he was 10 years old. His father, Topandas Verhomal Genomal, was granted the exclusive licence to manufacture and retail Jockey in the Philippines in 1959. Genomal brought that legacy partnership to India and the rest, as they say, is history.<\/p>\n\n\n

Source: fortuneindia<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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