Coffee startups chase growth despite losses

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July 13, 2026

Viveat Susan Pinto, S Shanthi (Financial Express)

13 July 2026

India’s new-age coffee chains are accelerating expansion despite continuing losses, as investors bet that the country’s under-penetrated branded cafe market can deliver long-term growth.

Third Wave Coffee plans to open 100 cafes this financial year while targeting company-wide break-even. Blue Tokai aims to expand from 240 outlets to 800 by FY30 and is preparing for an eventual public listing. Nothing Before Coffee (NBC), which has grown to 114 cafes across 45 cities, plans to more than double its network over the next two years.

The expansion comes even as profitability remains elusive. Investors, however, are increasingly prioritising store-level economics over headline profits, arguing that India’s cafe market is still in its early stages of growth.

“The earlier failures in the cafe segment were largely capital-discipline failures, not failures of the category itself,” said Vish Narain, managing partner at Pulsar Capital, which is backing Blue Tokai’s international expansion.

“Chains expanded store count before proving unit economics. Investors today understand that India’s per-capita coffee consumption is still in its early stages. They are reading past shutdowns as wrong execution, not wrong thesis,” he said.

Dissecting the Balance Sheets

The numbers highlight the challenge.

Heissette Beverages, the parent of Third Wave Coffee, accumulated losses of Rs 320 crore between FY21 and FY25, while total assets stood at Rs 538 crore at the end of FY25, according to Tracxn. Muhavra Enterprises, Blue Tokai’s parent, reported accumulated losses of Rs 175 crore over the same period, with total assets of nearly Rs 370 crore. Financials for FY26 are not yet available with Tracxn.

NBC accumulated losses of nearly Rs 3 crore over FY24 and FY25 against total assets of Rs 18 crore. Mumbai-based premium chain Subko Coffee, with 16 outlets in India and one in Dubai, posted losses of Rs 45 crore over five years, while total assets stood at Rs 61 crore at the end of FY25.

Third Wave Coffee said around 90% of its outlets are Ebitda-positive and expects to achieve company-wide break-even during FY27. Blue Tokai, backed by Verlinvest, is targeting profitability by March 2028.

NBC declined to specify a profitability timeline but said it has adopted a franchisee-invested, company-operated (FICO) model to reduce cash burn while retaining operational control.

“FICO lets us expand quickly with franchisee capital while keeping operational control,” said Ankesh Jain, co-founder and chief executive officer, Nothing Before Coffee.

Structural Shifts

Experts attribute the investor interest partly to improving outlet economics as operators shift from large dine-in formats to compact grab-and-go and cloud-kitchen models.

“These formats materially cut capex per outlet and shrink payback timelines, making the category venture-fundable rather than just a slow-and-steady, self-funded business,” said Krishna Dev Pathak, investment banker and advisor to early-stage startups.

Lower capital requirements have strengthened unit economics, reinforcing investor confidence despite delayed company-level profitability.

Investors are also betting on a broader shift in consumer behaviour. Anuj Kejriwal, chief executive officer and managing director of Anarock Retail, said rising incomes, urbanisation and changing preferences are gradually moving India from “a tea economy to a coffee economy”. The shift is widening the addressable market for organised coffee chains beyond the metros into smaller cities.

Consumers increasingly use cafes as workspaces, meeting points and all-day dining destinations, prompting chains to diversify into food, desserts, packaged coffee, vending solutions and merchandise.

“The cafe model is now well established as part of consumers’ lifestyles,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder and chief executive of retail consultancy Third Eyesight.

Challenges remain. Rentals in premium locations have surged, coffee prices remain volatile, and labour and supply-chain costs continue to pressure margins.

For now, investors appear willing to fund rapid expansion, betting that disciplined execution and improving unit economics will eventually turn India’s cafe boom into a profitable business.

(Published in Financial Express)

Why foreign-owned ecom firms’ operating models are under the lens

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July 12, 2026

Nivedita Mookerji, Business Standard
12 Jul 2026

Recently, fast moving consumer goods distributors posed some existential questions to the government: Have the rules changed for foreign-owned ecommerce firms? With that, the All India Consumer Products Distribution Federation made a plea to the government to examine if foreign-funded ecommerce and quick commerce players can run inventory-led businesses through warehouses and dark stores.

The question mark is around the operating model of the big daddies of retail — both from America — under the current foreign direct investment (FDI) guidelines. One of them is Bentonville-headquartered Walmart, which holds a controlling stake in e-commerce major Flipkart. And the other is Seattle-based Amazon. Both Flipkart and Amazon are upping their quick commerce play, a development that the Indian retail ecosystem players fear would hit them hard.

For context, foreign e-commerce companies are allowed to do business through the marketplace model as opposed to the inventory-led format. Marketplace operators such as Amazon and Flipkart (Walmart) are permitted to have sellers on their platforms and those sellers own the goods (inventory) which are sold to customers. Indian companies in the e-commerce business can own the goods and sell them directly to the consumers.

This is not the first time that there’s noise around the business practices of foreign majors and their alleged violations of the rulebook in relation to anything from the legality of the operating model to predatory pricing and deep discounting. The protests of the domestic traders against foreign players — that started decades ago with an agitation against the government’s multi-brand retail policy — have resulted in a series of amendments in the FDI rules, intervention of the competition watchdog CCI (Competition Commission of India), Supreme Court observations, making of laws and keeping them in abeyance. But, the complaints — from different quarters of the domestic business — have remained.     

Devangshu Dutta, founder and CEO of consulting firm Third Eyesight, argued that since 1996-97, when foreign investment in retail was first banned, governments of different political hues have been walking the regulatory tightrope with respect to foreign investment in retail, whether offline or online. “The government’s caution on retail policy was aimed at protecting domestic interests, though it is arguable whether it was for the small retailer, or the larger corporates who had identified this as a growth sector at the time,’’ Dutta said.

(Published in Business Standard)

Stitching together growth: Modenik bets on legacy brands in India’s innerwear battle

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June 30, 2026

Vaeshnavi Kasthuril, MINT

30 June 2026, Mumbai

Advent International-backed Modenik Lifestyle Pvt. Ltd is doubling down on its portfolio of legacy innerwear brands, planning to scale each label into a sizeable business rather than rely on a single flagship brand.

“Each of the brands must grow big enough to be called a company of its own,” Shekhar Tewari, chief executive and executive director, told Mint.

The company has four brands: premium women’s innerwear label Enamor, value brand Slimz, mass-premium men’s label Dixcy Scott, and premium men’s innerwear brand Levi’s. “These brands are very strong in their respective segments. They complement each other rather than compete,” Tewari said.

Levi’s Innerwear is priced between ₹250 and ₹550, Dixcy Scott and Slimz between ₹100 and ₹350, while Enamor’s products start at ₹500 and go beyond ₹2,500.

The strategy comes as India’s innerwear market, particularly women’s lingerie, has become one of the country’s most fiercely contested apparel categories, with established retailers and digital-first brands vying for market share.

Modenik’s focus on innerwear deepened after private equity firm Advent brought Enamor and Dixcy together under Modenik Lifestyle, following its acquisition of Enamor from Gokaldas Exports in 2019.

Both brands had expanded into adjacent categories such as athleisure, loungewear, sleepwear and outerwear, but struggled to keep pace with rising competition from fashion retailers and digital-first brands. The company has since exited much of its outerwear portfolio, taking a revenue hit.

“We took a conscious hit on the top line because we wanted to become a focused innerwear company,” Tewari said. “If you’re trying to be everything to everyone, you end up not being known for anything. We wanted consumers to think of us first when they think of innerwear.”

Revenue has remained largely flat at around ₹1,200 crore over the past three years, though losses have narrowed sharply. FY25 revenue stood at ₹1,224 crore, while net loss halved to ₹24.8 crore from ₹50.8 crore a year earlier.

Modenik aims to outpace the industry’s single-digit growth by increasing branded penetration in women’s innerwear, expanding its premium portfolio and adding exclusive store network, expected to cross 100 outlets in the near term.

The company sees significant headroom in women’s innerwear, where it estimates the market at more than ₹20,000 crore, but organised brands account for only ₹3,000-4,000 crore. It expects formalization, premiumization and product innovation to accelerate brand adoption.

According to Devangshu Dutta, chief executive of retail consultancy Third Eyesight, the market’s increasing fragmentation makes a multi-brand strategy more effective.

“You can’t have one brand stretching across multiple segments. The product has to be different, pricing strategies are different, the messaging and the distribution channel mix also varies depending on the consumer segment you’re trying to target,” he said.

According to industry estimates, India’s innerwear market is valued at over ₹90,000 crore (about $10.9 billion) and is expected to grow at a 6-7% compound annual growth rate (CAGR) over the next decade.

Advantages and avenues

Tewari believes Modenik has structural advantages over many digital-first rivals. Unlike online-first brands that typically outsource manufacturing, the company controls product development and manufacturing while leveraging decades-old relationships with distributors, department stores, exclusive brand outlets and multi-brand retailers.

“Those capabilities have been built over decades. They cannot be replicated overnight,” he said.

The company is also expanding across channels. Enamor is available through 6,000-7,000 multi-brand outlets, nearly 80 exclusive stores, department stores, including Shoppers Stop, Lifestyle, Central and Pantaloons, besides online marketplaces and quick commerce platforms. E-commerce contributes over 30% of Enamor’s revenue.

Although digital commerce is growing rapidly, Tewari believes physical retail will continue to play a critical role in the category.

“Innerwear is a category that requires understanding of fit, size and functionality. Consumers still want to touch, feel and try products before making the switch from unbranded to branded,” he said.

Rather than pursuing acquisitions, the company plans to unlock growth from its existing portfolio.

The strategy comes as competition in India’s innerwear market is intensifying. Page Industries dominates through Jockey, while Reliance Retail, which houses brands such as Clovia, Marks & Spencer and Hunkemöller, acquired digital-first lingerie platform Zivame, and added premium lingerie brand amanté. Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail has expanded Van Heusen Innerwear, while Trent has strengthened its innerwear offering through its private label brands at Westside and Zudio. New-age brands such as Shyaway, Bummer and Nykd by Nykaa have also stepped up investments in their products.

(Published in MINT)

Online beauty marketplaces push for growth with in-house brands

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June 22, 2026

Sharleen D’souza & Shivani Shinde, Business Standard
Mumbai, 21 June 2026

Online beauty marketplaces Reliance Retail Ventures’ Tira and Nykaa have a common mantra: growing in-house brands. Successful brand acquisitions and margin growth seem to fuel the push.

“With private labels, margins are better. It also helps both companies plug the gap in the market which other brands are not present in,” Devangshu Dutta, chief executive officer (CEO) of Third Eyesight, told Business Standard. Within in-house brands, products need some investment in research and development (R&D), he explained.

Harish Bijoor, brand and business strategy consultant at Harish Bijoor Consults, said that margins are better for platforms with in-house brands.“Typically most companies are getting insular. The idea is to own brands and own the profits from those brands. When you are a marketplace, you put in effort for other brands, this strategy helps marketplaces lock in on profits instead of losing out to other brands, which sell on the platform,” he said.

At the 49th annual general meeting of Reliance Industries (RIL) on Friday, Isha Ambani, executive director of Reliance Retail Ventures Ltd, and non-executive director of RIL, had laid out plans for Tira. “We will scale our own brands to consumers across India and beyond, ensuring Indian beauty prod-
ucts stand proudly alongside the world’s leading global giants.”

Its in-house brands include Puraveda, Pahadi Local, haircare brand Anomaly, which was recently acquired from actress Priyanka Chopra Jonas, and skincare and make-up brand Akind, which it co-created with Mira Rajput Kapoor. Its portfolio also includes Nails Our Way and Dream Immerse Play.

Ambani’s statement had come a day after Nykaa’s management had also hinted at expanding its in-house brands on its investor day on Thursday. The platform, operated by FSN E-Commerce Ventures, outlined an ambitious road map to become an over $5 billion beauty and lifestyle business.

The growth of Nykaa’s “House of Brands” is expected to be significant. The management aims to be the largest house of brands business in India by financial year 2030 (FY30). Management has guided toward a net sale value (NSV) compounded annual growth rate (CAGR) of 30 per cent over FY26-30, taking the NSV from Rs. 1,700 crore in FY26 to Rs. 5,000 crore by FY30.

The “House of Nykaa” GMV grew over 65 per cent in FY26, with an improvement in profitability. In a report on the company’s focus on in-house brands business, Motilal Oswal said, “House of Brands is expected to grow faster than the core marketplace business and become a meaningfully larger contributor to group revenues and profits by FY30. We believe profit contribution is expected to increase disproportionately, given the higher gross margins, stronger pricing control, and lower dependence on third-party brands.”

Nykaa’s platform creates a structural incubation advantage, it said. “Fashion today serves about 300,000 styles across categories, while customer discovery increasingly happens through content, personalisation, and creator-led commerce. This allows the company to identify emerging brands and categories early, before allocating capital behind them,” the report added.

As of the fourth quarter of financial year (FY26), “House of Nykaa” had 12 brands across Beauty and Fashion categories at various growth stages, and two successful acquisitions of Dot & Key and Earth Rhythm. Dot & Key has grown 13 times over the last three years, while Kay Beauty has grown three times over this period, said the company. During the Q4FY26 results, the company had said that the strong performance of “House of Nykaa” had impacted margins positively. P Ganesh, chief financial officer, FSN E-Commerce while explaining the margin growth said, “…with gross margin improving by 132 basis points
in FY26, led by strong performance of House of Nykaa and improved service income across businesses.”

For FY26, “House of Nykaa” delivered a strong Rs. 3,176 crore of GMV. “That’s an about 50 per cent year-on-year increase. Served more than 17 million consumers and expanded distribution beyond online as well to 150,000 GT doors. As a reminder, this unit includes brands across beauty and fashion, seven brands in Beauty and in Fashion five brands, with an increased focus on one in particular, which is Nykd,” said Adwaita Nayar, executive director, cofounder and chief executive officer, “House of Nykaa Brands”, during the fourth quarter results.

(Published in Business Standard)

Ecommerce isn’t adding much to Retail Inc’s cart

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June 12, 2026

Aanya Thakur & Writankar Mukherjee, Economic Times

12 June 2026, Mumbai/Kolkata

India’s leading retail chains have seen the share of e-commerce in total sales either remain flat or edge up by a sluggish 1-2 percentage points over the past four-five years despite a sustained push towards omnichannel retailing.

An ET analysis of eight major retailers-market leader Reliance Retail, Shoppers Stop, Westside, Arvind Fashions, DMart, Spencer’s Retail, Pantaloons and Bata-showed that the contribution of e-commerce to overall revenue has seen minuscule improvement since 2021-22 even as online sales continue to increase in absolute terms. By contrast, the Covid-19 pandemic spurred explosive growth, with the share of digital sales in total revenue surging three to four times in 2020-21 and 2021-22.

Industry executives attribute the slowdown partly to lower investment levels compared with pure-play digital firms such as Amazon, Flipkart, Swiggy and Blinkit-parent Eternal. Besides, retailers have consistently maintained that they will not pursue online growth at the expense of profitability, keeping prices largely aligned across online and offline channels.

The ET study found Tata-owned Westside’s online contribution stood at 7% in 2021-22 and thereafter remained around 6% till 2025-26. Reliance Retail’s online share ranged between 17% and 19% during the period, while Bata’s remained at 10-12%.

For DMart, e-commerce accounted for 5-6% of sales, while Shoppers Stop’s online arm, Shoppers Stop.Com (India) Ltd, contributed less than 1% to the consolidated revenue between 2021-22 and 2024-25. The company has not disclosed 2025-26 online sales figures yet.

“The DNA of these retailers is rooted in the physical world-infrastructure, processes and systems are not inherently designed for e-commerce, which requires a different operating model,” said Devangshu Dutta, chief executive of consultancy Third Eyesight.

“Most retailers calling themselves omnichannel are effectively multi-channel. Online retail is capital-intensive and hyper-competitive. Given the significant scope for physical store expansion, especially in tier-2 and tier-3 cities, retailers are reluctant to invest aggressively online,” he said.

Even so, Avenue Supermarts, which runs DMart, invested Rs 150 crore in online grocery platform DMart Ready this week, following a Rs 174-crore infusion a year earlier.

By comparison, Eternal infused Rs 2,600 crore into Blinkit in 2025 and another Rs 450 crore in March this year. Similarly, Swiggy approved a Rs 1,000-crore investment in supply-chain subsidiary Scootsy last year as both companies expanded their dark-store networks.

The chief executive of Aditya Birla-owned departmental chain Pantaloons, Sangeeta Tanwani, recently told analysts that online sales accounted for just 3-4% of the business. She said the company had earlier refrained from investing in the channel because profitability remained elusive.

“But over the last year, we called out omnichannel as one of our priorities… The reason why we had paused that business was because we wanted to make sure that we can get the unit economics right and make this business profitable… With all the shifts we have made this year, we feel confident of scaling up this business,” Tanwani said.

Reliance Retail, meanwhile, reported lower earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortisation (EBITDA) margin growth in both the January-March quarter and entire 2025-26 as investments in quick commerce weighed on profitability. Chief financial officer Dinesh Taluja recently told analysts that margins depend on the pace at which online and business-to-business segments grow relative to the core offline business.

“If we slow down online growth, margins will improve. It is a mix as far as the online business continues to grow faster,” he had said.

An industry executive said the online contribution may go up modestly in this financial year due to high investment in scaling up dark stores for quick commerce.

Queries emailed to Reliance Retail did not elicit a response till press time. The company had in December last year appointed former Flipkart executive Jeyandran Venugopal as its new chief executive for the retail business.

(Published in Economic Times)